Tools you will need

• Measuring tape and a sharp pencil
• Spirit level (or a laser level for long runs)
• Fine-toothed handsaw or jigsaw with a wood blade
• Strong grab adhesive and a caulking gun for most panels
• Brad nailer or panel pins for heavier panels
• Mitre box if you are cutting trims to angle

Prep the wall

• Make sure the wall is dry, flat, and clean. Brush off any loose paint or dust.
• Fill larger dents with filler and let it cure fully before fitting.
• If the wall is wallpapered, take the paper off first. Adhesive bonds to the wall, not to a paper layer that will eventually let go.
• Plot your layout in pencil before cutting anything. Start from a fixed reference — usually the most visible corner — and work outwards.

Adhesive vs mechanical fix

• Light panels (slim slat, MDF profile under around 3kg per panel) — Grab adhesive alone is fine. Apply in continuous beads along the back, press firm, hold for 60 seconds.
• Heavier panels (solid-back, real wood, stone-effect over 5kg per panel) — Use adhesive plus panel pins or a brad nailer into the wall studs. Adhesive bonds; mechanical fix prevents creep over time.

Cutting around obstacles

For sockets and switches: turn the power off, remove the cover, measure twice, mark on the panel back with a pencil, cut with a jigsaw. A small overcut is hidden by the replaced cover plate — an undercut is much worse.

Joints and edges

Push panels gently together; do not force. A 1–2mm gap at the perimeter allows for movement and is hidden by your skirting or trim. For mitre cuts at corners, dry-fit before committing.

After install

Open windows for 24 hours to let the adhesive fully cure and any solvent smell clear. Wipe panel fronts with a barely-damp cloth — never soak.

When in doubt

For larger jobs or curved walls, hire a trade fitter. The cost of a half-day fit is less than re-buying a panel you have cut wrong.