A sofa is the single most expensive piece of furniture most households buy. It is also the one with the widest quality range, because the structural parts are hidden inside the upholstery and you cannot see them in the shop or in a photograph. The questions below are what we ask manufacturers before we list any sofa, and they are the same questions worth asking whoever you buy from.
1. The frame
A sofa lives or dies by its frame. The hierarchy, from longest-lasting to shortest:
- Kiln-dried hardwood (oak, beech, ash). Stable, moisture-controlled, holds joints under load. Expect 20+ years.
- Plywood. Stable, predictable, used widely on mid-market sofas. Expect 10 to 15 years if other components are good.
- Softwood (pine, fir). Cheaper, prone to warping if it has not been kiln-dried. Acceptable on entry-level pieces if the joints are reinforced.
- Particleboard or chipboard. Avoid. The screw holds break down within a few years.
Ask the supplier what the frame is. If they cannot tell you, that is your answer.
2. The suspension
What is between the frame and the cushion is what makes the sofa feel solid or saggy.
- Sinuous (S-shaped) springs. The standard for most modern sofas. Reliable, supportive, easy to manufacture. Look for steel-gauge ratings.
- Pocket springs. Each spring sleeved individually. More expensive, more contoured, longer-lasting.
- Webbing. Polypropylene or jute strapping. Lightweight, common on contemporary low-profile sofas. Less supportive over decades.
3. The cushion fill
- High-density foam (HD35 or HD40). The number is the density in kg per cubic metre. HD35 is the entry standard for a quality sofa; HD40 is firm and long-lasting. Anything below HD30 sags within months.
- Foam-wrapped fibre. A foam core surrounded by polyester fibre. Plumper, softer, needs more frequent replumping.
- Feather and down. The classic luxurious feel — sinks, contours, then needs a daily plump. Best for occasional-use rooms.
- Mixed fill. Foam in the seats, feather in the back cushions. Our preferred combination for everyday sofas.
4. The fabric
Look for two numbers on the data sheet:
- Martindale rub count. Above 25,000 is contract grade. Above 35,000 is heavy commercial. For a domestic sofa, 25,000+ is plenty.
- Pilling rating. 4 or 5 on a 1-5 scale. Below 4 and the fabric will bobble.
Performance fabrics (acrylic-blend bouclé, treated linens) shrug off household spills with a damp cloth. Untreated cotton and pure linen look beautiful but mark.
5. The construction details
- Reversible seat cushions. They wear evenly. You can flip them every month.
- Removable covers. If the cover unzips, it can be cleaned or replaced. If it does not, the whole sofa goes when the fabric goes.
- Joinery. Look for dowel-and-screw or mortise-and-tenon joints. Stapled joints are a red flag.
- Legs. Bolted or doweled, not stapled. They take a lot of force in a household.
6. The dimensions
Three measurements that matter beyond overall length: seat depth (50cm to 60cm is normal — deeper for lounging, shallower for sitting upright), seat height (43cm to 48cm is comfortable for most adults), and arm width (slim arms give you 10cm to 20cm more usable seat width than chunky ones).
7. The warranty
Read it before you buy. A meaningful sofa warranty covers the frame for at least 10 years. Cushion and fabric typically cover 1 to 2 years for fair wear. If the warranty is not stated, ask.
What we sell
Our sofas use kiln-dried hardwood frames, sinuous or pocket-spring suspension, HD35-or-better foam, and 25,000+ Martindale fabrics across the range. We list every spec on every product page — partly because we think you should know, and partly because the pieces that ask you to take the construction on faith are usually the ones that should not be taken on faith.
Browse our sofas, or call us with a room dimension and we will recommend three that fit.
